Deb's miscellaneous thoughts 10-8-15

* We enjoyed every minute of our trip back from Marseille to Paris on the high speed train, the TGV. The countryside was vivid in shades of green and the beginnings of fall colors. There were hillsides of vineyards in yellows, oranges and khakis, looking like gargantuan, geometric patchwork quilts under the scudding clouds. It was fascinating to see the changes from the scrubby coastal pines on the white rocks of the Provencal coast change to the lush deciduous forests bordering the higher Central Massif with the blue mountains off in the distance, clouds and fog snagged on their heights. From there into corn and cow country - fat cows, fat corn despite the earlier drought. Change after change as we sped along at ~180 mph. We were about the only ones looking at the scenery, though. Everyone else seemed absorbed in cell phones, computers, sleep or in one case, a fussy, snuffy baby boy. He fell asleep and gave his tired mom a break about 20 minutes before we hit Paris.


*I'm amazed at the changes that happened here in Paris while we were gone. We were only gone ~10 days and the Louvre has had its huge event that required filling the Cour Carre with scaffolding and a temporary building that was built over the center fountain. All was coming down today as we walked by, unable to take our usual route to the bus. And further on,we rode by a new steel girder structure holding up what look like construction offices, now grafted to the front of the beloved Samaritaine department store. The Samaritaine buildings have been at the center of an ongoing dispute about their future use since the demise of the store years ago. We'd read that resolution has finally been reached on this section, and obviously work is about to begin. On a smaller scale, an burned-out apartment we walk by regularly going to the bus has been cleaned up with new shutters and spiffy bright new paint. In our building, that apartment below us went up for sale just before we left and we noticed new folks moving in today.


*Other changes - both our butcher and cheese mongers have new offerings for the fall season. A new cheese we bought but didn't catch the name of. And at the moment I'm roasting a couple of duck breasts wrapped around some sort of special fall stuffing spiced with the Piment d'Espelette that we love. We've gotten to trust our vendors so much that we just sorta catch what we can of their explanations and buy what they suggest. They haven't led us wrong yet. (a later note - the duck was spectacular. Warren says he wants to eat it every week until we leave...)

*On the note of local vendors, we had a pleasant interchange with our wine monger, Chris as he was heading off for his lunch break in the park with a sandwich and a split of wine, He wanted to know how our trip down to the Lot had been, had the food was, and (of course) if we'd had any good wine. We told him how lovely the villages were and he commented that many Brits and Americans had bought houses in the regions of the Perigord and Dordogne nearby. He said he was glad, as both nationalities were "good neighbors" in the villages. I asked what he meant and he said that Brits and Americans buy goods from local merchants like butchers and bakers and (of course) wine merchants. He went on further to say that some other nationalities are known to buy houses but bring absolutely everything with them from their home countries, including even bread. I mentioned that I'd heard that lament before. He said maybe they only came for the sun, and didn't care for the bread or wine of the area. Amazing. (Warren and Chris also discussed the latest results of the World Rugby games currently being held in England, and the pitiful game in which the US was beaten sadly, unable to score a single point.)

*We had a nice little repeat visit to a wonderful shop in Marseille. I couldn't believe that Warren could remember how to find Maison Empereur, one of the best cooking shops I've ever visited. Just wandering through that place is enough to inspire hunger. Knives, pots, canning supplies, giant pans for the risottos and couscous you see in market stalls, real gold leaf for pastry, implements in wood and steel and porcelain whose uses I can only guess at  -  on and on. Ducking  through a low doorway (some of us ducking less than others) you find a full hardware store selling everything from door hinges to several varieties of boules balls. I restrained myself and only bought a nifty pastry bag for doing decorative touches. One of the genial clerks helped me to identify a knife I want to buy and enjoyed seeing the knife/corkscrew that Warren had bought there some years ago, commenting that he was doing a good job of caring for it and that it looked like new. Fortunately, it was near closing time. We needed something to force us out of there.

*It was so wonderful for us to get to spend time with two sets of lovely friends this week. Meeting Mel and Mar in the Lot was so much fun, but quite amazing. Who'd a thunk we'd meet someday in a tiny French village? Mel and Mar were so kind to share their beautiful rental and all they know of this scenic area. You guys are such generous spirits.

*And getting to spend time with dear Julia and Jose was very special for us. Both meals we shared with them were lovely. The one at the tiny restaurant was an absolute delight, but the one that Julia prepared we'll remember forever for the all trouble she went to and all the hospitality she and Jose showed us.Not to mention their endless patience with our primitive French, and their kindness in ignoring all the rude things we didn't mean to say but don't understand. And Jose's resilient and creative driving literally getting us home through storm and flood. A million thanks!

*And one last small, quiet thank you to dear, patient Elizabeth who keeps things running at home to allow us to continue playing Paris. Hope Mapie is taking good care of you...