Today we took the bus from Marseille to Martigues to visit a town made known to us through the papers of John Edward Thompson. Thompson was a Denver artist of national renown during the 1920's to 1940's but has fallen into obscurity since his death in 1946. Anyway we wanted to see the town he had visited, while studying and painting during his time in Europe from 1902 to 1914.
According to Jose our host from Arles it is sometimes called the Venice of France, due to an island between the northern and southern parts of town that boasts a canal and festively colored houses. It is now a yacht basin and boasts many beautiful boats.
It was enjoyable to see the countryside around Marseille from the bus as we traveled to Martigues, it is heavily populated with small towns and outlying olive groves. We got off the bus in the south part of town and walked across a bridge to the island and then across another bridge to the north part of town looking for the tourist information bureau.
Once there we got a map of town and walked back looking at sites on the walking tour. We spent several hours absorbing the feel of the place and enjoying the architecture, though not as scenic as the Lot it still has that Mediterranean appeal.
After our visit we headed back to Marseille to go to dinner at the Vieux Port, an area next to the harbor quite touristy but having many good restaurants. But we found out, some that are less good as well. I pressed for a place that was the site of the good bouillabaisse we had on our first visit to Marseille, or so I thought. In the space of 3 days I've had the good fortune to taste a wonderful old plum brandy, eau de vie, that was as old as me, and also the bad fortune to taste a bouillabaisse that seemed to have fish of the same age, they were dry with no flavor to speak of and the half lobster may have been older than me. Deb's experience was really no better. The only redeeming thing was the grilled shrimp appetizer and the Rose wine from Cassis.
Thus giving credence to the notion that there is bad food to be had in France, if you really try. Perhaps the restaurant changed ownership, it marks the only one out of the three I've eaten that was not delicious. But tomorrow is another day and I'm an optimist.
Today we took the bus from Marseille to Martigues to visit a town made known to us through the papers of John Edward Thompson. Thompson was a Denver artist of national renown during the 1920's to 1940's but has fallen into obscurity since his death in 1946. Anyway we wanted to see the town he had visited, while studying and painting during his time in Europe from 1902 to 1914.
According to Jose our host from Arles it is sometimes called the Venice of France, due to an island between the northern and southern parts of town that boasts a canal and festively colored houses. It is now a yacht basin and boasts many beautiful boats.
It was enjoyable to see the countryside around Marseille from the bus as we traveled to Martigues, it is heavily populated with small towns and outlying olive groves. We got off the bus in the south part of town and walked across a bridge to the island and then across another bridge to the north part of town looking for the tourist information bureau. 
Once there we got a map of town and walked back looking at sites on the walking tour. We spent several hours absorbing the feel of the place and enjoying the architecture, though not as scenic as the Lot it still has that Mediterranean appeal.
After our visit we headed back to Marseille to go to dinner at the Vieux Port, an area next to the harbor quite touristy but having many good restaurants. But we found out, some that are less good as well. I pressed for a place that was the site of the good bouillabaisse we had on our first visit to Marseille, or so I thought. In the space of 3 days I've had the good fortune to taste a wonderful old plum brandy, eau de vie, that was as old as me, and also the bad fortune to taste a bouillabaisse that seemed to have fish of the same age, they were dry with no flavor to speak of and the half lobster may have been older than me. Deb's experience was really no better. The only redeeming thing was the grilled shrimp appetizer and the Rose wine from Cassis.
Thus giving credence to the notion that there is bad food to be had in France, if you really try. Perhaps the restaurant changed ownership, it marks the only one out of the three I've eaten that was not delicious. But tomorrow is another day and I'm an optimist.
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